you are here [x]: Scarlet Star Studios > the Scarlet Letters > making my first two-part mold
<< before
bloom
after >>
artist's way guided intent (june)
June 5, 2006
making my first two-part mold
by sven at 7:54 pm
Thursday (June 2) I got back into the studio and made my first two-part mold.
The mold itself is made from ultracal 30 that I bought at Stephenson Pattern Supply. Ultracal is a gypsum product that's about halfway between plaster and concrete; it's designed to capture a lot of detail.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_01.moldmaking.jpg)
The red clay is "cherry creek red (no grog)" that I bought at Georgies. I needed a soft clay that wouldn't damage my sculpt; an employee recommended that I select any "low fire" clay without grog. I picked a red clay so there'd be good visual contrast with my sculpt while I was working.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_02.moldmaking.jpg)
This sculpt has a long nose and long feet. It really ought to get a three- or four-part mold. However, I opted to go for a two-part mold.
Why? I decided that I just couldn't leap from only ever having done one-piece molds to doing a complicated four-piece mold. The material I'm going to use for casting is flexible; I'm hoping that with a little effort I'll still be able to get it out of the two-piece. ...I decided that while this is most likely a mistake, it's a mistake that I need to make in order to understand the mold-making process better. I also decided that I've been being too precious with my sculpt; there will be more sculpts -- it's OK to screw this one up.
I think occasionally it's worthwhile to go ahead with a project even when you know at the outset that it's flawed. Mistakes are an important part of how we learn.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_03.moldmaking.jpg)
I made a cardboard wall to hold the liquid ultracal in place... I've watched Kathi Zung's video, and she doesn't do this. She slathers the material on by hand, then shapes it with a kidney-shaped pottery tool (sort of like frosting a cake).
It may well be that I wasn't mixing my ultracal thickly enough -- or maybe I should have waited for it to get stiffer before pouring... Nonetheless, the technique I used seems to have worked out alright.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_04.moldmaking.jpg)
For making "keys" for the mold, I tried two different styles. On one side there's a sort of clay trapezoid with tapered edges. On the other side there are two marbles that I pressed into the clay. Initially, the marbles didn't want to separate from the ultracal 30. A gentle knock with a hammer did the trick, though. ...The two sides of the finished mold seem to fit together very well.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_05.moldmaking.jpg)
I extended the top of the mold using what was at hand: cardstock. It worked OK when the paper didn't have to hold back too much ultracal.
I figured out when I made my second wall that you really do need the cardboard for strength -- but if you line it with cardstock, then the resulting mold has smoother and nicer sides.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_06.moldmaking.jpg)
When I mixed the ultracal 30 with water, I did so in these big paper buckets that I found at Ace Hardware. They seem to be meant for house-painters... However, they very quickly became soggy. Near the end of the day, I was carrying one of these paper buckets, full with water, away from the sink -- and it started gushing water out the bottom onto the carpet!
Grrr.... No real harm done -- but on my next plaster-making run, I'll definitely be using plastic buckets instead.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_07.moldmaking.jpg)
When the ultracal for the first side of the mold was hard, I removed the cardboard walls. Then, I flipped the whole thing over and stripped away the red clay. I had been worried that the clay would damage my sculpt... I was very pleased to discover that it really left no damage at all.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_08.moldmaking.jpg)
When I was flipping everything over so I could do the other side, I had an absentminded moment where I tried to pick up the work-piece by its wooden base. Oops! While it looks like everything is firmly attached to that piece of wood, really it's just the sculpt that's held in place with tie-downs. My flub created some tiny spaces beneath the feet of the sculpt that I had to fix -- otherwise, ultracal would have flowed into the feet-holes of the mold.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_09.moldmaking.jpg)
There were some minor smudges of red clay left on the sculpt. It was very easy to clean these off, just using a brush and water.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_10.moldmaking.jpg)
After I cleaned off all the red clay residue, I used a brush to apply vaseline to the ultracal. In retrospect, I think I probably should have applied vaseline to the sculpt as well. It was a nightmare picking plasticene out of the mold later.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_11.moldmaking.jpg)
Doing the second pour of ultracal is pretty similar, so I'm just going to let the pictures tell the story here...
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_12.moldmaking.jpg)
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_13.moldmaking.jpg)
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_14.moldmaking.jpg)
After giving the second side of the mold time to harden, I opened it up... The sculpt didn't survive at all. I had thought that plasticene -- an oil-based clay -- wouldn't stick to the ultracal. I was wrong.
Maybe I opened up the mold too soon. I know that you're supposed to let ultracal set for at least two hours -- and I only gave it one. When I opened it up, it was pretty warm inside... The plasticene had the consistency of peanut butter. Maybe if I hadn't been in such a hurry -- if I had let everything cool down -- maybe then the plasticene would have come out more easily.
Or maybe I just needed to apply a release to the sculpt itself. Vaseline would probably work. I've also heard that a clear acrylic spray can do the trick.
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_15.moldmaking.jpg)
(Here you see those terrible buckets that I mentioned earlier.)
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_16.moldmaking.jpg)
Even after I'd scraped all the plasticene out of the mold using my trusty loop tool, there was still an oily residue. To get this out, I needed a solvent. What I had at hand was turpenoid. Scrubbing turpenoid around with a brush, the residue came out quite easily (although scrubbing ultimately ruined the brush).
...I'm a bit worried, though. Turpenoid is a petroleum distillate. Will it leave any sort of oily residue? When you cast liquid latex in a plaster mold, it cures because the ammonia content is absorbed into the gypsum. Will a petroleum residue prevent the ultracal from absorbing the ammonia? Or will the turpenoid, since it's a solvent, evaporate from the mold -- leaving it OK for use with latex?
![](http://www.scarletstarstudios.com/art/sven_pix/2006/06.05.06_17.moldmaking.jpg)
And here's the finished mold! I took me a bit over eight hours to make -- kinda a long time, but not over my patience threshold.
Boy is this thing massive, though! Lesson learned: Another advantage of doing a three- or four-part mold would be that you wouldn't need nearly as much ultracal.
THE SURPRISING EPILOGUE
The mold is done; I'm ready to make castings. However, just this morning I had surgery on my back to remove a lipoma (a large, non-cancerous fatty deposit). Consequently, I'm not supposed to lift anything as heavy as a gallon of milk for 4-6 weeks. How am I going to work with my monster-sized mold?
Gretchin has generously offered to help... Still, I'm having a moment of discouragement.
posted by sven | June 5, 2006 7:54 PM | categories: sculpture, stopmo